A Magnificent Journey Awaits You With Theworlds50best / 10 Brilliant Things To Eat, Drink And Do in Baku / By Farida Zeynalova / theworlds50best
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Presented in partnership with the Azerbaijan Tourism Board
With its future-facing arts scene, visionary architecture and spread of standout restaurants, Azerbaijan’s capital offers a true taste of what makes the region tick
If any city embodies the moniker ‘cultural smorgasbord’, it’s the Azerbaijani capital of Baku, where 12th-century alleys and ancient Zoroastrian sites meet glittering skyscrapers and avant-garde museums.
It’s also home to a thrilling food scene, dishing up smoky kebabs, saffron-infused plovs, pillowy breads and crisp, herb-laced salads made for curious palates. In the Old City, you’ll find former roadside inns, now restaurants serving traditional dishes, while beyond its medieval walls, there’s everything from cosy wine bars to market-restaurants that fizz with life and flavour. Here are 10 unmissable things to eat, drink and do in Azerbaijan’s capital city.
1. Kickstart the day at Qaynana
Pomidor çığırtması, a breakfast staple of slow-cooked eggs with tomato
Smack bang in the heart of the Old City, the rustic Qaynana (meaning mother-in-law in Azerbaijani) is a no-brainer for early morning fuel. Go local and tuck into a breakfast mezze of honey, yogurt, cheese, eggs, black tea and bread, baked fresh in the restaurant’s traditional tendir oven. Another staple is a simple omelette dish with chopped tomatoes seasoned with salt and pepper. If you’re still peckish, fill up on fasali – a flaky flatbread perfect with crumbly white cheese and a drizzle of honey.
2. Stroll down leafy Baku Boulevard
The Azerbaijan Carpet Museum takes the shape of a rolled-up rug
Baku’s Caspian-facing promenade, Baku Boulevard has been a local favourite since 1909, and remains the go-to place for city dwellers to unwind. Today, this 16-mile stretch is home to landmarks such as the arresting, flower-shaped Deniz Mall, the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum, National Flag Square, the Baku Eye, and Little Venice, where you can take in the Baku skyline while being whisked along placid canals on a gondola. Running parallel, Neftchilar Avenue is studded with glossy hotels, designer boutiques and architectural gems such as the stately Government House.
3. Eat Azerbaijan’s national dish at Nakhchivan
Nakhchivan is a stylish pit-stop for refined local dishes
With more than 40 varieties, this hearty meat-and-rice dish is essential to any Azerbaijani feast. At the upscale Nakhchivan, varieties include the decadent shah plov, layered with chestnuts, dried fruit and either tender chicken or lamb, and sabzi plov, made with lamb and aromatic herbs.
Pair your plov with gutab, a thin flatbread filled with meat, herbs or pumpkin, and mangal salad with fire-roasted vegetables, plus fresh tomatoes, onions and greens. Choose from a vast selection of cocktails, wine and spirits to round out the meal.
4. Indulge in sustainably sourced caviar
Go all out with a private caviar tasting at Baku Caviar Boutique
Azerbaijan’s Caspian coast is known for its premium black caviar, and Baku Caviar Boutique in the Old City offers a taste of the best. Here, you’ll find a spread of sturgeon caviars, from rare Beluga to Sevruga, which carries delicious sea-salt and toasted notes. Staff guide visitors through production techniques and suggest appropriate food pairings, from oysters to chocolate. For something truly unique, book the rooftop terrace for caviar and champagne with views of Baku’s iconic Flame Towers. What’s more, every jar purchased supports the release of 10 sturgeons back into the wild.
5. Soak up the art scene
The futuristic Heydar Aliyev Centre, designed by Zaha Hadid
You’re never far from a mind-boggling feat of architecture or an artistic marvel in Baku. Just east of the epicentre you’ll find Heydar Aliyev Centre, a striking, wave-like structure by Zaha Hadid, which redefined Baku’s skyline when it opened in 2012. Today, it continues to draw crowds with exhibitions and concerts, recently featuring the works of Italian sculptor Lorenzo Quinn. Over by National Flag Square is Yarat Contemporary Art Space, a former naval base turned contemporary gallery offering thought-provoking exhibitions and workshops, while the Baku Museum of Modern Art is an ideal place to take in local works.
6. Sip local wines at Kefli
For an authentic taste of Azerbaijani wine, head to Kefli, just a short stroll from Baku Boulevard and Fountains Square. Sip on a full-bodied red such as Khindogni, an indigenous grape from Karabakh, a zesty bayan shira white from Chabiant in Ismayilli or a dry white Meysari from Shamakhi, pairing it with a hand-selected cheese or meat board. For something more laidback, try Room Baku, a cosy, hipster wine bar that serves both local and international wines.
7. Shop for something old and something new
The vibrant fruit stalls at Yashil Bazar
Baku is a shopaholic’s dream, offering everything from sleek malls to quirky gift shops littered with vintage finds. Head to Yashil Bazar , a buzzing indoor food market brimming with spices, nuts and sweets, where vendors sell juicy watermelons straight from their vans. For lunch with a side of history, visit Passage 1901, a two-storey converted bazaar with a restaurant surrounded by historic relics and a leafy courtyard with occasional live music. For designer labels, Port Baku Mall and the boutiques along Neftchilar Avenue are your go-tos.
8. Rest your legs at a local tea house
Dried fruit, nuts and pastries at Cay Bagi 145
Tea culture is so ingrained in Azerbaijani culture that it was added to Unesco’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2022. At Cay Bagi 145, perched on the sea-facing rooftop of an Old City hammam, order a tea from a traditional pear-shaped armudu glass (and named after the shape of the fruit), served black, hot and with a slice of lemon.
Other top spots include Shirvanshah’s Museum Restaurant, adorned with carpets and antiques, where tea is served alongside desserts such as honey-and-nut-filled shekerbura and pakhlava pastries.
9. Try Pan-Asian treats at Chinar
Craving a break from Azerbaijani fare? Make your way to Chinar, a chic Pan-Asian hotspot just a short walk from Baku Boulevard. With its sultry, private member’s club vibe, this place is all about bold flavours from Japan, China, Thailand and Indonesia.
Dishes here are as much art as they are food – think salmon tartare topped with fish roe and served with crispy rice crackers, or tuna oshi seared and dolloped with a punchy wasabi mayo.
Drinks are a treat, too: plump for the rich and moreish signature Azerbaijani espresso martini.
10. Live it up with live music
Baku experienced a jazz boom in the 60s and 70s and it’s still a mainstay in the local music scene. At Port Wine & Grill, live jazz fills the air alongside atmospheric DJ sets and themed nights on its terrace. For more live vibes, check out the elegant Nar & Sharab, Heritage Wine Bar, or Mugham Club, a former caravanserai where you can catch nightly mugham performances – deep soulful tunes rooted in Azerbaijani heritage. If you fancy a late-night kick on, FOMO delivers some of the region’s hottest house and techno acts, from Swiss duo Adriatique to Danish soundsmith Christian Nielsen.
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