Our seaplane banks hard to the left as it makes its descent. The little windows are engulfed in an exotic aqua, the unmistakable colour of the Maldivian ocean. Necks strain for a look as our destination comes into view: the St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort.

The small group of travellers with whom I share the little plane can’t hide their anticipation. A taste of the luxury to come was already gifted back on the capital Malé. Picked up as I emerged from customs, I was quickly ferried from the international airport to the seaplane terminal, bottles of Evian and WiFi on hand. The concierge turns mid-journey with an iPad in hand and I watch a bespoke greeting from my butler, waiting patiently on the island ahead.

Shortly, I’m in the sizeable, air-conditioned St. Regis airport lounge relaxing with food, drinks and coffee, the weight lifting from my shoulders. Now it’s barely 40-minutes later and the curated flight path is giving us all an eyeful of the island paradise below.

We bank around the overwater villas, past the iconic Whale Bar, over the famous house reef and settle to the water alongside the Iridium Spa, its lobster-inspired design etched into the iconic blues.

I’m here.

As I step off the seaplane, I’m greeted by a line of waving staff, dressed in island chic, smart yet relaxed. I recognise my butler, her face beaming with the warmest of smiles; a coconut held forward in her hand. The gentle sea breeze takes the bite out of the hot sun, and sounds of waves lapping against the white sand confirm that I am, no doubt, in paradise.

Smaller is better

Vommuli Island, of which the St. Regis has private ownership, is small even by Maldivian standards. Nestled in the Dhaalu Atoll around 169km south of Malé, the natural island is just 414m long and 236m wide, its pint size only adding to its allure.

The resort feels intimate. It feels private. It feels communal, like you’re sharing something special with just a handful of other travellers and the relentlessly affable staff. I’m told that even 200 guests at any one time is unusual and across my stay, I’m quick to recognise other travellers as if they were in my own party. We’re in this together. Similarly, staff greet me by name and I’m soon having enjoyable chats with chefs, bar staff and activity coordinators.

A singular sandy road circles the island and, with your provided bicycle, can be leisurely lapped in less than 10 minutes. The ride, made all the more pleasant thanks to the thick jungle canopy that shelters you from the heat, makes it easy to navigate and quick to get wherever you’d like to go.

When I think of luxury, my mind is quick to conjure images of huge ornate rooms, mouth-watering food, exotic views and being pampered. The St. Regis Maldives offers all of these things, but its true luxury isn’t so tangible. It’s in the isolation, comradery and personalisation, and the feeling of warmth and intimacy thanks to its small size.

Rooms with a view

In the centre of Vommuli island you’ll find the staff quarters, shielded out of sight and mind, alongside a handful of garden villas, walled-off to ensure maximum privacy.

The perimeter of the island is reserved almost entirely for ocean-facing villas, with the exception of the odd sprawling, opulent estate. Off the northern end, a long wooden wharf curls out into the ocean like a stingray’s tail, offering sunset and sunrise villas that sit over the house reef.

I take a peek at each of the room categories during my stay and find they mirror each other in décor. The St. Regis Maldives shies away from modern whites and machined polish. Instead, it opts for rustic wooden shells, protecting rooms of muted browns, chandeliers, thick black metal framing and large glass panels that let in abundant natural light.

Comfortable, large beds are positioned so you can wake up to the wonder of the ocean. Netted hammocks and sunlounges adorn the deck next to the private pool. Large walk-in-wardrobes and a huge vanity create a sense of grandeur, with thick stone benches and floor-to-ceiling tiles. Bathtubs sit like islands, gazing out over the water. Large TVs, tablet smart controllers, remote curtains and quiet air-conditioning ensures you’re not without modern necessities. (Although WiFi speeds do leave a lot to be desired.)

Nothing quite beats an overwater villa, especially those facing sunset side, but the single bedroom beach villas on the eastern shore offer a fantastic sandy frontage and jaw-dropping, high-pitched ceiling design. Meanwhile, the two-bedroom offerings on the western shore provide ample room for big families.

Keeping busy

The St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort is blessed with wonders both natural and manmade. During the heat of the day, I tend to stay close to the water. One of the resort’s biggest drawcards is its house reef, which is a sight to behold. Whether solo or on a guided tour, with your complimentary snorkel gear you can be out to the edge of the reef in just a few kicks of the flipper.

Just off the dive centre, you’ll find an underwater wonderland, teeming with fish of every colour and size. From parrot fish to barracuda, white-tipped reef sharks to manta rays, and even the odd turtle, it’s magnificent. Even better is the snorkelling off the overwater villas, where the marine life gets closer to shore. The coral is good without being great, however, sadly rebounding from a recent bleaching event.

Of course, you can scuba dive as well, or engage in motorised activities such as parasailing, banana boats and jet skis. There’s fishing and surfing trips to be had, as well as sailing and plenty more. Alternatively, the main beach offers waves to roll around in, a huge pool, hammocks and lounges galore. Elsewhere you’ll find a tennis court, gym and fully stocked kids club.

For the complete pamper, the Iridium Spa offers a unique experience. Designed like a lobster, at the end of the main body you’ll find the Blue Hole Pool where you’d imagine the lobster’s head might be. With shallow water, massage jets and a horizon of endless blue, this is a dreamy spot to relax before an indulgent massage in one of the spacious, modern treatment rooms.

Evenings are all about The Whale Bar, a truly brilliant synergy of design and environment. The bar itself is housed within the mouth of a life-sized blue whale replica, the lower lip reaching out towards the sunset, sprinkled with lounges and tables.

As the sky turns into reds, oranges and pinks, I watch a champagne ceremony unfold as I sip my cocktail, the beats from the DJ’s set filling my ears as all the guests gather to enjoy a Maldivian evening at its most spectacular.

Multitude of memories

There’s no shortage of little touches that delight at every tun, in particular the architecture. The brilliant Whale Bar and Iridium Spa may be iconic, but they’re not alone in their beauty. There’s the conical shell design of the library, the two-bedroom beach villas are shaped in homage to the traditional Maldivian fishing ships of the region, and the kitchen at the Cargo restaurant is housed in a shipping container that came off the Titanic.

The food is exceptional, too. Whale Bar dishes up succulent meats and inventive cocktails, while Orientale is the place to go for a host of Asian delights. I run my toes through the sand while chomping down on burgers at the Crust & Craft, and take my time over the lavishly presented breakfast at ALBA, where you can sip a Bloody Mary while selecting from the stunning array of savoury wonders.

Looking out my little window as the St. Regis Maldives fades out of view, the sounds of the seaplane’s propellers overpowering the need for conversation, I know I’ve just been treated to something very special; an experience I will never forget: Luxury in form, luxury in nature and luxury in memory.

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