Get In The Know Of The Latest In Luxury Travel Mag / Chasing Waterfalls (And The Northern Lights) In Iceland / By Tatyana Leonov / luxurytravelmag

In the south of Iceland, where waterfalls plummet from great heights and snow-capped mountains pierce the sky, outdoor adventures reign supreme

The chill of the air hovers around 3°C, and we bundle up to walk the 15-minute track from the carpark to the base of Seljalandsfoss, one of the most magnificent waterfalls in southern Iceland. It’s a scenic stroll, and even though we’re sharing the path with other travellers, there’s a sense of calm in the air as we all appreciate the mossy green hills and the fast-cascading water before us.

The water’s force is so powerful that as we draw nearer, we feel its brunt on our bodies.

What possesses us to join the throng of adventurers ducking behind the waterfall, I can’t quite recall. I think our eldest daughter is insisting, and in the heat of the moment, we propel ourselves into the roaring curtain of water. The sound is deafening, and we find ourselves cloaked in a swirling mist… a mist that engulfs us in an eddy of exhilaration. A moment later – well, both kids start complaining that they are wet and cold.

Life on the land

It’s a short drive back to our accommodation, Skálakot Manour Hotel, and it’s not long before we’ve warmed up with a hot drink and a steaming bath. Skálakot is first and foremost a family-run farm, but there’s also a charming boutique hotel on-site that caters to the upmarket traveller. We’re here as part of our self-drive tour with 50 Degrees North, so the logistics, activities and car hire have been sorted, and our job is to simply turn up.

The traditional homestead-style building is nestled in mountain foothills and faces across the plains to the North Atlantic – from the outside there is little that hints to the splendour that awaits.

Inside, there’s a cosy restaurant, comfortable rooms and two suites.

We’re staying in the master suite, best described as barnyard chic in design with herringbone flooring and furniture to match. The free-standing, claw-foot bath takes pride of place in the middle of the living room, and the kids love being the centre of attention… even while soaking.

Warm and clean, our afternoon activities begin with a horse ride, a quintessential adventure in this land of rugged beauty. Introduced by Norse settlers in the 9th century, Icelandic horses have adapted to the country’s harsh climate and challenging terrain, evolving into a breed renowned for its strength, stamina and sure-footedness.

There are many farms across the country with thousands of horses, and riding has become a popular activity for tourists, contributing significantly to Icelandic culture in more recent times.

Our eldest has a lesson first, and both girls immediately bond with her horse. Their trainer explains that Icelandic horses are known for their gentle and friendly disposition, making them ideal companions for riders of all ages and experience levels. Although our eldest hasn’t ridden before, she’s off on a short, guided trot within an hour, and she begs us to enrol her in lessons when we return home.

Jagged mountains loom in the distance, their peaks covered by snow like frosted crowns atop ancient giants. Emerald green meadows stretch out before us, dotted with grazing sheep and the occasional farmhouse nestled amid the rolling hills.

Giddy up!

I join a group of guests a little later for a trail ride that traverses black-sand beaches and weaves its way across dramatic coastal cliffs. The journey is smooth and comfortable, and the group leader tells us that this is because Icelandic horses have five gaits, rather than the normal three of walk, trot and canter.

 Tölt is a smooth, rhythmic four-beat lateral step that lacks the jolting motion of the trot, while the skeið is a rhythmic two-beat gait where both legs on one side of the horse simultaneously touch the ground.

When performed at speed, there are times when no hooves are in contact with the earth, and the sensation is almost like flying. Apparently, it’s this additional range of gaits that allows for a smoother and more stable ride.

The scenery of South Iceland is nothing short of awe-inspiring, and as we ride, I take it all in. Jagged mountains loom in the distance, their peaks covered by snow like frosted crowns atop ancient giants. Emerald green meadows stretch out before us, dotted with grazing sheep and the occasional farmhouse nestled amid the rolling hills.

In the saddle, I find myself pondering the resilience of farm animals amid the harsh Icelandic winter conditions. Upon our return to Skálakot, my curiosity is piqued, and I remind myself to quiz the staff who will guide us on a farm tour tomorrow.

Farm fresh

Farming in Iceland faces unique challenges, and as expected, it’s much easier during the summer months when the weather is milder and daylight hours are longer.

However, life goes on in all seasons and, consequently, farming requires careful planning. It’s crop harvesting time in October, and we learn how farmers gather hay and other winter feed for animals and store vegetables like potatoes and turnips.

As the cold weather encroaches, livestock are usually brought down from highland pastures to lower elevations, and come winter, they are housed in sheltered environments.

Although most visitors come to Iceland in the summer, autumn (when we visit) offers a different kind of beauty. As the days grow shorter and temperatures begin to drop, the ever-changing interplay of light and dark casts intriguing shadows across the vibrant gold and green hillsides. There’s no snow (yet) at sea level here in southern Iceland; instead, the low-lying sun bathes the landscape in a golden glow that sets the countryside ablaze come early afternoon.

Autumn in Iceland also brings the possibility of witnessing the Northern Lights, so we don’t mind the shorter daylight hours. We’re also hoping for an early display, instead of a 3am wake-up call.

It’s as if the heavens hear us. The first time we see the aurora borealis is soon after we finish dinner. Initially, it’s just a shimmer of white, so faint and inconspicuous that we argue between ourselves whether it’s simply a trick of the eye.

But within the hour, that ghost-like sliver transforms into a velvety canvas of sparkling green, unfurling across the sky like a Chinese fan.

The children are gobsmacked, my husband is taking his gloves on and off trying to get the perfect photo, and I just sit and stare, humbled to be a small speck in this faraway world, observing this ethereal cosmic dance alongside those who I love most.

Journey Notes

The 10-day Golden Circle & Snæfellsnes Self-Drive Tour by 50 Degrees North is priced from $10,525 per person, and includes boutique hotel stays in rural locations, car hire, airport transfers and activities like snorkelling in Silfra, glacier walks and many more.

fiftydegreesnorth.com

Good to know

The Northern Lights season in Iceland runs from September until April.

While you’re here

If you want to see real lava, safely, head to the Vik’s Lava Show – the only one of its kind in the world ­– to watch a volcanic eruption being recreated. Founders Ragnhildur and Júlíus have also recently opened a second location in Reykjavik.

icelandiclavashow.com