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Travel Exclusive / What To Eat, See, Drink, And Buy In Milan, Italy / By Nick Sullivan / www.esquire.com / Jennifer Bar,Tony Bar, Sedat Karagoz / Istanbul,New York Travel,Tourism News Office / Janbolat Khanat / Almaty Travel,Tourism News Office

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What To Eat, See, Drink, And Buy In Milan, Italy / By Nick Sullivan / www.esquire.com / Janbolat Khanat / Almaty Culture & Art / Tourism Office
During my most recent trip to Milan, in June, I bumped into a local I know who asked, at least half seriously, “You’re here so much, why don’t you just get an apartment?” It’s a good question. I’ve been in Milan more than a hundred times since starting as a fashion writer in the ’90s. This year I’ve been four times, and I’ll be back in a couple weeks. I have always loved it.
Milan is a bustling, working city that is home to roughly 1.5 million people. In the past decade, it has transformed into a thoroughly modern place that lives proudly on its reputation for being a world leader in contemporary style, art, and design. And while big-designer fashion is usually a magnet for most visitors, I tend to frequent stores you’ll find only in Milan. And I prefer bars and restaurants that are reliable rather than fashionable. Here’s my slice of Milan.
Trattoria Milanese
Shhh, don’t tell anyone about this spot. It’s at the heart of the Cinque Vie district—literally five narrow streets that represent the oldest surviving bit of medieval Milan. There’s nothing trendy about this classic old-school Lombardian eatery, but the food is great—have the tortellini al sugo d’arrosto (tortellini with beef jus).
Torre di Pisa
What’s the best food in Milan? Undoubtedly Lombardian. But for something more Tuscan, go to the Torre di Pisa. The pro moves are the formidable Fiorentina steak and the heaven-on-a-plate rigatoni alla Toscana with a beef ragù.
A Santa Lucia
A bustling yet comfortable restaurant close to the Duomo with a no-nonsense menu, overlooked by the photos of 400 Italian celebrities who have dined there. Service is attentive, and the food is really, really good. Most of the customers are locals, plus a smattering of fashionistas and a few foreigners in the know.OBA TRANS
La Latteria
Determined to do everything their own way from the beginning, husband and wife Arturo and Maria Maggi, the owners since 1965 of the Latteria di San Marco, a former creamery, don’t take reservations, don’t take credit cards, and don’t produce a menu, either. Instead, if you can get a seat, you’ll choose from an ever-changing—and very short—selection of dishes based on the produce dug up that morning from a market garden just outside the city.
This is humble Italian food at its very best, and it’s served to just eight tables. The interior is decorated with dated furniture and art of frankly questionable quality. You feel you’ve been invited into a Milanese grandmother’s home for lunch. In a sense, you have.
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Bar Jamaica
Blissfully untainted by the hand or eye of an interior designer, the century-old Bar Jamaica is in the heart of the chic Brera district. It was for decades a popular meeting place for the Milanese luminaries of art, journalism, and photography. Upstairs, a tiny bistro serves basic eats into the night. It may not be the creative hub it once was, but it’s still a great spot for a sharp shot of Milanese espresso or an aperitivo.
Bar Basso
A favorite gathering site of the international design set during the Salone del Mobile, Bar Basso is famed for its negronis. The negroni sbagliato was invented here when a barman replaced the gin in a negroni with a sploosh of prosecco. These—and the regular kind—are served in whopping handmade glasses in two rooms left unmodernized since the 1940s.
Elita Bar
A top choice for downing an early-evening gin and tonic, Elita Bar is in the trendy Navigli district, in the southwest of Milan—a place that is heaving with bars, restaurants, and fashion stores. The small plates are excellent, especially the alici, fried whole anchovies. On the last Sunday of every month, a large antiques market is held along the banks of the nearby Naviglio Grande.
N’ombra de Vin
This is a storied wine bar with a usually crammed sidewalk area that is a magnet for local fashion types—chatting, drinking, and smoking. The cavernous wine cellar downstairs is generally much quieter, but even that fills up at peak times. Great for wine or cocktails and excellent fresh snacks of bread, cheese, and salami.
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Sease
Amidst all the big-brand designer boutiques on Via Monte Napoleone, Milan’s most famous fashion street, an exciting new arrival is Sease, the performance-wear brand set up by brothers Franco and Giacomo Loro Piana that fuses high-tech functional design and old-school fabrics. Inspired by surfing, sailing, and skiing, the label takes performance sportswear and kicks it up a notch or three. A current collab with maverick environmental-campaign group Sea Shepherd offers pieces made from recycled plastic gathered from the oceans.
Fortela
Alessandro Squarzi’s sportswear brand is growing fast and available online, but there’s nothing better than buying at the source. Fortela is casual clothing inspired by military and American style and given an Italian edge. There’s a sense of continuity in each new collection, so that something you buy now will likely still look great in ten years, if not better.
Eral 55
For serious vintage hounds, Eral 55 is the essential stop in Milan. It’s a place where you can find secondhand English or American shoes, Japanese denim, and vintage clothing from an expertly curated range of well-known and lesser-known brands. Alternatively, pick from founder Ermanno Lazzarin’s own branded and reasonably priced ready-to-wear clothes or his high-end bespoke label Sartoria Lazzarin, with pieces made directly above the shop.
Massimo Alba
Alba is a veteran at producing luxurious, interesting clothes, many of which he hand-finishes with dyes to add depth. He is a champion of and passionate believer in slow fashion, and his mens- and womenswear is the sort of clothing that you put on once and feel as if you’ve owned it—and loved it—for years. A current hot ready-to-wear buy is the fine needlecord “Sloop” suit he created for Daniel Craig for the opening sequence of No Time to Die.
Aspesi
In men’s style, Italy has a monopoly on modern sportswear with a technical/military bent. Founded by streetwear’s earliest guru, Alberto Aspesi, this brand has been around since the late ’60s but has never looked more relevant. Now designed by a onetime protégé of Aspesi, American designer Lawrence Steele, the label is undergoing a subtle change while remaining true to the original philosophy of wearable functional clothing that is more focused on authenticity than trends.
Fondazione Prada
This multiuse gallery located in a century-old distillery to display and promote contemporary art is one of the city’s biggest recent developments. It also has a Wes Anderson–designed café bar inspired by midcentury Milan cafés.
Museo del Novecento
The novecento, or 900, is how Italians refer to the 20th century. Housed in the Palazzo dell’Arengario, the museum was opened in 2010 to showcase the explosion of Italian modernist art during the 20th century
Pinacoteca di Brera
One of the more old-school museums of Milan and a pleasant way to while away an afternoon surrounded by some Renaissance greats, followed by an aperitivo round the corner at Bar Jamaica.
Triennale Milano
Named after the Milan Triennial, an exhibition of art and design that ran from 1933 to 1996 and again in 2016, this modern museum devoted to art, design, and architecture features a permanent collection of Italian industrial design, from the Fiat 500 to the Olivetti typewriter.

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    Very Special With İstanbul Guide / The 25 Best Things To Do İn İstanbul That Don't Cost A Thing / Turkey / By Jennifer Hattam

    2847508180872811204.jpeg

    With its lively streets layered with history, just walking around Istanbul is an attraction in itself. You can feast on street food for pocket change or visit the city’s marvelous mosques, markets and parks for no cost at all.

    Here are the best free things to see and do in Istanbul, Turkey’s largest metropolis.

    Explore the world in comfort with the latest travel insight from our weekly newsletter delivered to your inbox.

    Aya Sofya at morning twilight in Istanbul, Turkey

    Reconsecrated as a mosque in 2023, Aya Sofya is now free to visit © DANNY HU / Getty Images

    1. Step inside the Byzantine basilica of Aya Sofya

    One of the grandest buildings of the ancient world, the Byzantine basilica of Aya Sofya has been free for visitors to enter since its reconsecration as a mosque in summer of 2023.

    Its towering dome was the second-largest in the world when it was built in the 6th century and still inspires awe, with light filtering through its 40 windows to cast an ethereal glow on the building’s rich frescos, mosaics and multicolored marble. 

    After experiencing these extraordinary beauties, how about eating a wonderful meal and then drinking a great coffee?

    A wide view of people walking past the Suleymaniye Mosque on the Third Hill of Istanbul

    Istanbul’s many Ottoman-era mosques, including Süleymaniye Mosque, are all free to visit © Darkdiamond67 / Getty Images

    2. Head up to the elegant Süleymaniye Mosque

    Splendid Ottoman-era mosques, all free to visit, top the historic seven hills of Istanbul’s Old City and adorn many streets. The elegant Süleymaniye Mosque is the finest of them all, with a grand complex of buildings around it and an impressive perch overlooking the Golden Horn. 

    3. Visit the intimate Rüstem Paşa Mosque

    Tucked away in the bustling market streets of Eminönü, the intimate Rüstem Paşa Mosque boasts wonderfully rich tile work. As with all mosques, non-worshippers should avoid going inside at prayer times, which are displayed near the entrance. All visitors must dress modestly, and women must cover their heads.

    4. Take a picnic to Gülhane Park

    Two favorite local pastimes are picnicking and promenading, and there are some lovely parks and gardens in Istanbul open to the public. With its stately old trees and winding paths, Gülhane Park – once part of the Topkapı Palace gardens – is particularly beautiful.

    5. See the 4th-century Aqueduct of Valens

    The 4th-century Aqueduct of Valens once carried water into Istanbul and is still an impressive sight, towering over a multi-lane roadway.

    The Women’s Bazaar that sits in its shadow is a colorful neighborhood square lined with popular kebab restaurants.

    6. Meander around the Grand Bazaar

    Often referred to as the world’s oldest mall, the Grand Bazaar sprawls over 61 covered and maze-like streets. The best exploring is in the crumbling hans (caravanserais) along its fringes, where a few artisans still ply their long-practiced trades.

    After experiencing these extraordinary beauties, how about eating a wonderful meal and then drinking a great coffee?

    People shopping in the Spice Bazaar in the Eminonu quarter of the Fatih district in Istanbul.

    You’ll find more souvenirs than spices today in the Mısır Çarşısı © Izzet Keribar / Getty Images

    7. Shop for souvenirs and snacks around the Spice Bazaar

    You’ll find more souvenirs than spices today in the Mısır Çarşısı, better known in English as the Spice Bazaar, but the streets around this Ottoman-era marketplace in Eminönü are a great place to get a taste of the vibrant local shopping life.

    Along the bazaar, outdoor stalls are piled high with dried fruits, nuts and other edible goodies in case you need fuel before plunging into the maze of streets and hans behind it, full of shoppers buying everything from clothes to kitchenware.

    8. Check out traditional and organic street markets

    Traditional weekly street markets retain a loyal following, despite the proliferation of modern malls and grocery stores. The Wednesday Market in Fatih, which tumbles through the streets surrounding the Fatih Mosque, is among the biggest and best. On Saturdays, head to Feriköy for Turkey’s first organic bazaar.

    9. Snap a few photos at the Kadıköy Produce Market

    A stroll through the Kadıköy Produce Market, a lively strip of mostly open-air shops near the ferry port, makes for great photographic opportunities, with its colorful, carefully arranged displays of olives, produce, dried fruit and nuts, fish, cheese, pickles and more.

    Very Special With İstanbul / The 25 Best Things To Do İn İstanbul That Don’t Cost A Thing / Turkey / By Jennifer Hattam / lonelyplanet.com/Sedat Karagoz / Istanbul,New York Travel,Tourism News Office / Jennifer Bar / Tony Bar / Janbolat Khanat Almaty Travel,Tourism News Office

      Exterior view of the white Church of St. Stephen of the Bulgars. There is a golden dome with smaller golden domes dotted along the roof
      Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars is one of the most architecturally unique sites in Istanbul © Caner CIFTCI / Getty Images

      After experiencing these extraordinary beauties, how about eating a wonderful meal and then drinking a great coffee?

      10. See the Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars

      Istanbul has a number of still-functioning Christian churches, many with great historical significance.

      Perhaps the most distinctive is the Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars, assembled from 500 tons of cast-iron pieces shipped in from Vienna along the Danube on dozens of barges.

      A restoration completed in 2018 has this cross-shaped basilica and its ornate interior gleaming.

      11. Marvel at the Hünkâr Kasrı, a pavilion fit for a sultan

      This private pavilion used by the sultan during his visits to the Yeni Cami (New Mosque) is resplendent with tiles, carpets, inlaid wood and stained glass.

      Access to the Hünkâr Kasrı is through a long enclosed ramp behind the mosque.

      12. Take in an exhibit at the Pera Museum

      Well-curated temporary exhibitions of contemporary art and a fine collection of Orientalist paintings by European and Ottoman artists are the draws at the Pera Museum, which offers free admission every Friday between 6pm and 10pm.

      A large ornate chandelier hangs in the middle of the Eyüp Sultan Mosque. There's a large red and blue carpet spreading from one end of the mosque to the other.


      Eyüp Sultan Mosque is one of the most sacred sites in Istanbul © Sanatkar / Getty Images

      After experiencing these extraordinary beauties, how about eating a wonderful meal and then drinking a great coffee?

      13. Make a pilgrimage to Eyüp Sultan Mosque

      One of the most sacred sites in the city, Eyüp Sultan Mosque is surrounded by grand tomb complexes and a leafy cemetery stretching up the hillside, affording fine views of the Golden Horn from the top.

      The mosque complex is said to be the burial place of Ebu Eyüp El Ensari, a close companion of the Prophet, making it an important pilgrimage spot for Muslims.

      14. Attend an event at a SALT cultural center

      Housed in the beautifully restored former headquarters of the Imperial Ottoman Bank, SALT Galata is a cultural center and library that hosts exhibitions and special events, including free talks and film screenings that are sometimes held in English.

      Its sister institution up the hill, SALT Beyoğlu, has similar programming and is worth a visit too.

      15. Soak up the scene at Beyoğlu’s art galleries

      Istanbul’s vibrant contemporary art scene is on display throughout the Beyoğlu district, particularly around İstiklal Caddesi and in the Karaköy, Tophane and Tomtom neighborhoods.

      You could easily spend half a day perusing a range of intriguing galleries and other exhibition spaces – including MeşherYapı Kredi Kültür SanatAkbank ArtDepoGalerist and Mixer – whose rotating shows can be visited for free.

      A large lake surrounded by trees and grass


      Enjoy a picnic or a leisurely stroll through Yıldız Park © Runoman / Getty Images

      After experiencing these extraordinary beauties, how about eating a wonderful meal and then drinking a great coffee?

      16. Stroll along the well-kept paths of Yıldız Park

      Well-kept paths, plenty of trees and some charming Ottoman-era mansions make hilly Yıldız Park in Beşiktaş a lovely place for a picnic or a stroll. There’s a stellar view of the city by the path leading down from the historic Çadır Köşkü, now serving as a restaurant. 

      17. See another side of the city’s history at the İstanbul Arastırmaları Enstitüsü

      From urban planning to street animals, the Istanbul Research Institute presents different, often lesser-known aspects of the city’s history through exhibitions that draw on its rich archival collection of photographs and documents.

      18. Learn something new at the Research Center for Anatolian Civilizations

      One of the country’s top higher-education institutes, Koç University supports research into the history, art, architecture and archaeology of the centuries of civilizations that have called today’s Turkey home.

      Some of the fruits of this research are regularly displayed in exhibitions at the Koç University Research Center for Anatolian Civilizations on İstiklal Caddesi.

      19. Get a peek at early 20th-century upper-class life at the Aşiyan Museum

      The sweeping panorama of the Bosporus may be its most eye-popping feature, but the Aşiyan Museum also offers a glimpse into early 20th-century upper-class life in Istanbul.

      Full of vintage furniture and photographs, this sweet little house-museum was once home to noted poet Tevfik Fikret.

      20. See the tulips in bloom at Emirgan Park

      Above the shores of the Bosphorus, pretty Emirgan Park (Emirgan Korusu) is especially lovely during the Istanbul Tulip Festival each April, when millions of bulbs planted around the city bloom in a riot of colors.

      The park has play and picnic areas, a jogging track and three Ottoman mansions-turned-cafes. It’s a popular spot for wedding photos.

      21. Head downstairs to see the Nakilbent Sarnıcı 

      Underground cisterns for water storage that date back to Byzantine times are dotted around Sultanahmet. The Nakilbent Sarnıcı (Nakilbent Cistern) was rediscovered during the building process for the Nakkaş carpet store and preserved underneath the shop for any visitors to see.

      The Binbirdirek Sarnıcı (Cistern of Philoxenos) on the opposite side of the Hippodrome is occasionally open for exhibitions and other events.

      People walking near famous landmarks Obelisk of Theodosius and Serpent Column at the Hippodrome in Istanbul, Turkey


      Historic landmarks dot the Byzantines’ ancient Hippodrome in Istanbul © IgorZh / Shutterstock

      After experiencing these extraordinary beauties, how about eating a wonderful meal and then drinking a great coffee?

      22. Wander through Sultanahmet’s historic Hippodrome

      Not much remains of the Byzantines’ old chariot-racing venue, but the historic Hippodrome in Sultanahmet is still an evocative place to take a stroll. From the southeastern corner of the Hippodrome, follow Nakilbent Sokak as it winds down to see the towering remains of the Sphendone.

      This semicircular end of the ancient stadium gives a real sense of how massive this structure once was.

      23. Go for a run or just chill out in Maçka Park

      Though less historic than some of the central city’s other green spaces, Maçka Park in Şişli is a favorite place for locals to while away a sunny weekend afternoon, with children’s play areas, a dog park and a small jogging track. 

      24. Gain insight into the Turkish bath tradition at the Turkish Hamam Culture Museum

      You won’t get a scrub, but you will get an insight into the hammam (Turkish bath) tradition at the Turkish Hamam Culture Museum, where bathing accessories and depictions of the ritual are displayed in the restored chambers of an early-16th-century bath.

      25. Spend some quiet time at the Beyazıt State Library

      The oldest and largest library in Istanbul, the architecturally impressive Beyazıt State Library is worth a peek for its multi-domed reading room and artful restoration blending old and new.

      After experiencing these extraordinary beauties, how about eating a wonderful meal and then drinking a great coffee?

      Very Special With İstanbul Guide / The 25 Best Things To Do İn İstanbul That Don’t Cost A Thing / Turkey / By Jennifer Hattam / lonelyplanet.com/Sedat Karagoz / Istanbul,New York Travel,Tourism News Office / Jennifer Bar / Tony Bar / Janbolat Khanat Almaty Travel,Tourism News Office

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        JANNIFER BAR

        JANBOLAT KHANAT FOUNDER / GENERAL DIRECTOR/ REGIONAL MANAGER JANBOLAT KHANAT + 7 702 230 42 17 (whatsapp) NEWYORK 797 / 7th Ave, New York City, New York 10019, USA / TONY BAR / JENNIFER BAR Thank you very much for everything.Very nice to know you.If there is anything I can do please write for me... jk@wmwnewsturkey.com GSM+ 90 541 732 90 64 ( TURKEY ) ISTANBUL +7 702 230 42 17 KAZAKİSTAN jk@wmwnewsturkey.com
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